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RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide: Every Fix

Quick Answer

Most RV fridge problems come from poor leveling, dirty vents, a failed thermistor, or mode-selection errors. Before replacing anything, level your RV, check both vents for blockage, toggle between gas and electric to confirm which mode works, and verify the thermostat isn't set too low. If the fridge still doesn't cool, the cooling unit or control board likely failed and needs professional replacement.

A broken RV fridge means spoiled food, ruined trips, and expensive repairs. Unlike home refrigerators, RV models run on gas, electric, or both, and they can fail in ways that seem mysterious if you're not familiar with absorption cooling. This guide covers every common RV fridge problem: no cooling, running but not cold, works on electric but not gas, freezing everything, and brand-specific quirks for Norcold and Dometic units. You'll learn how to diagnose each issue, what you can safely fix yourself (leveling, door seals, mode switching), and which problems demand a technician's expertise (cooling unit failure, compressor replacement). We'll help you decide whether repair or replacement makes sense for your budget and timeline.

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Quick Diagnosis: Check These First

RV fridges are pickier than home models, and leveling is the first rule. Most absorption-style fridges won't cool properly if the RV is tilted more than 2–3 degrees. Find a level spot (use a small bubble level on the floor), and if you're tilted, unhitch and adjust with jacks. Wait 30 minutes after leveling before expecting cooling—absorption systems need time to settle. Next, inspect both the fridge vents: there should be an outside vent on the RV wall and a vent inside the fridge compartment. Both must be completely clear of dust, leaves, animal nests, or debris. Dirty vents are the second most common cause of cooling failure (leveling is first). Use a vacuum hose or compressed air to clear them from the outside vent while standing behind the RV. Inside, pull the upper shelf and look at the fridge vent—vacuum out any dust bunnies. Fans in some models can be clogged too. If vents are clear and the RV is level, check your power source: for electric mode, verify shore power is connected or batteries are charged (most fridges draw 5–10 amps on electric). For gas mode, listen at the stove—if no gas there, your propane tank is empty. If you have power and fuel, your control settings likely matter: check that the fridge is actually set to a cooling mode, the thermostat isn't set too low (start at mid-range), and you haven't accidentally hit a defrost or high-ambient mode. Give the fridge at least 4 hours to cool from room temperature before assuming it's broken.

Not Cooling at All: Diagnose Your Mode

If your fridge runs (you can hear the fan or smell propane) but produces no cold, the cause depends on which mode you're in. For electric-only failure: Confirm the heating element is powered (check breaker, verify shore power connection). Listen for a gentle hum near the fridge back—if there's no sound, the element isn't getting electricity. If you hear a hum but no cooling, the element has burned out and needs professional replacement. For gas-only failure: If propane flows elsewhere but not at the fridge, the gas solenoid isn't opening, a problem that requires a technician. If propane reaches the fridge but there's no flame or the burner sparks without lighting, the igniter electrode is likely dirty or corroded—clean it gently with fine sandpaper, or it may need replacement. For dual-mode (Auto or both selected): If neither gas nor electric cools, the cooling unit (the absorption chamber where cooling actually happens) has likely failed, usually due to ammonia leak. This is the most expensive failure and requires replacement of the entire fridge (or just the cooling unit module in some high-end models, $800–$1200). Alternatively, the thermistor (temperature sensor) may have failed and isn't telling the control board to run cooling—this is a $100–$200 fix. If the fridge was recently moved or shipped, it may need to sit upright for 24 hours before use; some ammonia-based systems require settling time.

Running But Not Getting Cold: The Slow Cool

This is distinct from "not cooling at all"—your fridge is trying but it's just not getting cold. The thermistor (temperature sensor inside the fridge) might have failed and is sending false signals to the control board, causing intermittent heating or preventing the cooling system from running at full power. Test by setting the thermostat to maximum cold and waiting 8 hours; if it eventually gets cold, the thermistor is likely okay but confused. Try unplugging the fridge from power for 5 minutes, then plugging it back in to reset the board. If it suddenly cools, it was a software glitch. If it remains slow, the thermistor probably needs replacement ($80–$150 part, plus labor). Another cause: the condenser fan is running but slowly, usually due to a motor bearing issue or a buildup of dust on fan blades. Open the panel at the back of the fridge and inspect the large fan behind the cooling unit. If blades are clogged with dust, vacuum them. If the fan spins slowly or barely at all, the motor is wearing out and needs replacement ($200–$300). Poor ventilation can also cause slow cooling—if the outside vent or inside vent is partially blocked (even 20% blocked), cooling efficiency drops dramatically. Finally, if you're in very hot weather (over 95°F ambient), some fridges naturally cool slowly because the condenser can't dissipate enough heat. This is not a failure, just a limitation of RV cooling capacity. Use shade, cover the outside vent with a reflective cover, and reduce your thermostat—it should eventually cool, just more slowly.

Works on Electric but Not Gas (or Vice Versa)

Mode-specific failure is common and narrows your diagnosis significantly. For electric-to-gas transition failure: If your fridge cools perfectly on electric but won't cool when you switch to gas (or when switching to Auto/both modes), the propane solenoid or burner has failed. First, confirm propane is flowing: check your stove for gas. If the stove has flame but the fridge doesn't, the fridge's solenoid valve won't open—this requires professional replacement ($200–$400). If propane reaches the fridge burner but won't ignite, the igniter electrode is dirty or the DSI board has failed—clean the electrode first, then call a tech if that doesn't work. For gas-to-electric transition failure: If gas works but electric doesn't, the heating element is burned out (a $100–$200 part), or the control board isn't recognizing that you've switched to electric mode. Try unplugging for 5 minutes and checking the mode switch—sometimes a bad connection on the control board prevents mode switching. If neither fixes it, the heating element or board needs replacement. For fridges that only work on one mode, you've lost the other system entirely. Use the working mode while you plan repairs. Note: Some Dometic and Norcold fridges have separate control boards for gas and electric; if one board fails, only its mode fails. Replacement isn't terribly expensive, but it requires a technician who knows your specific model.

Freezing Everything: Ice in Your Fridge

If your fridge is running but freezing food or creating excessive ice inside the compartment, the temperature control has gone wrong. Start by checking if your thermostat dial or electronic display is set to maximum cold; if so, dial it back to mid-range. Many RVers accidentally max out the temperature control and freeze everything. Wait 4 hours and check again. If the dial is already at mid-range and things are still freezing, two things usually cause this: (1) the evaporator fan is running constantly when it should cycle on and off, pushing too much cold air into the fridge compartment, or (2) the damper that controls airflow between the freezer and fridge has stuck in the closed position, blocking air from the freezer but allowing it to concentrate in the fridge, forming ice. The damper is a motorized flapper inside the fridge that's controlled by temperature sensors. If it's stuck, you'll see ice building up while the freezer section is normal temperature. Clearing the ice and testing if the damper moves is a start, but if it's stuck, replacement requires a technician ($150–$250). The evaporator fan can sometimes be cleaned (dust buildup restricts airflow and causes cycling issues), but if it's running non-stop, the motor or the control board might not be cycling it properly—another technician task. In the meantime, prop the fridge door slightly ajar to reduce cooling, or switch to a lower temperature setting. Freezing is annoying but not dangerous; just prevent it while you schedule repairs.

Norcold RV Fridge Issues and Solutions

Norcold fridges are known for reliability but have specific failure modes. The most common is the NO CO error code (or similar fault code), which indicates the cooling unit has failed—usually an ammonia leak inside the sealed cooling chamber. This is not repairable; the fridge or the cooling module must be replaced. Norcold has also had several recalls for control boards and thermistors on certain serial number ranges. Check Norcold's website and enter your serial number to see if your fridge is affected; many recalls include free parts or repair coverage. Another Norcold quirk: their thermistors are prone to failure after 5–7 years, causing intermittent cooling or inability to switch between modes. If your Norcold works intermittently (cools sometimes, doesn't other times), the thermistor is the primary suspect—it's a $100–$150 replacement. Norcold also uses a unique propane detection system; if it doesn't detect propane flow within the first 30 seconds of ignition, it locks out and won't try again until you reset it. If you get repeated ignition failures, turn off the fridge for 10 minutes, confirm propane is flowing at other appliances, then turn it back on and hold your breath for that first 30 seconds. Finally, Norcold recommends annual flushing and maintenance to prevent sediment buildup in the cooling system. This is worth doing: hire a technician to flush your cooling lines annually if you use your RV more than half the year.

Dometic RV Fridge Issues and Solutions

Dometic is the premium fridge brand and generally very reliable, but failures are expensive to fix. Their main weak point is electronic control boards in units stored in extreme heat (over 105°F) or cold (below -20°F); the circuit board can fail entirely, refusing to power on or recognize any input. If your Dometic suddenly goes dead and won't respond to buttons or mode switches, the board is likely failed ($300–$500 replacement). Dometic also uses sensitive igniter electrodes that corrode in humid climates; if your Dometic won't ignite on gas despite propane flow, clean the electrode or have it replaced ($100–$200). Another issue unique to Dometic's higher-end models: their thermistor placement can cause false low-temperature readings if the door seal weakens, allowing warm air to leak in and the thermistor to receive inaccurate data. This manifests as the fridge cooling normally but then suddenly switching off or cycling incorrectly. Check the door gasket for cracks or compression loss; a new gasket ($30–$80) often fixes the issue. Finally, Dometic's propane solenoid has been known to fail after 10+ years of use, preventing gas mode entirely. Replacement requires a technician ($200–$400). The upside: Dometic parts are widely available, and most independent RV techs know how to service them. The downside: repairs cost more because parts are premium. If your Dometic is over 15 years old and major components are failing, replacement may be more cost-effective than continued repairs.

When to Repair vs. Replace

Deciding whether to fix or replace your fridge comes down to age, the specific failure, and the repair cost. A fridge under 5 years old with a single failure (bad heating element, corroded electrode, failed thermistor) is usually worth repairing—expect $200–$400 in labor plus parts, and you'll have another 10 years of service. A fridge between 5–10 years old with a major failure (cooling unit ammonia leak, control board failure) is borderline: repair costs are $800–$1500, while a quality used RV fridge is $800–$1200, and a new one is $1500–$3500. If repairs exceed 60% of replacement cost, you're better off replacing. A fridge over 10 years old that's failing is usually a replacement candidate; parts are becoming harder to find, and multiple systems are aging simultaneously. Also consider: a new fridge might be more efficient, quieter, or have features like faster cooling or better insulation. If your RV is home full-time or used for long-distance travel, investing in a reliable new fridge pays dividends. If your RV is used seasonally or for short trips, spending $400–$600 to fix an older fridge might be worth it. Talk to a technician about your specific repair; they can tell you the failure mode and honestly advise whether fixing or replacing makes sense.

When to Call a Pro

Call a technician if you smell propane but the fridge won't ignite, if you've confirmed the cooling unit has failed (ammonia leak), if the control board is unresponsive, if the heating element is burned out, if the thermistor is reading incorrectly, or if the door gasket needs replacement and you're not comfortable doing it yourself. Ammonia leaks, control board replacement, and propane solenoid repairs all require professional certification and specialized tools.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Why do RV fridges need to be level to cool?

Most RV fridges use absorption cooling, which relies on gravity to circulate ammonia through the cooling loop. If the fridge is tilted more than 2–3 degrees, ammonia circulation is disrupted and cooling fails. This is why leveling is the first troubleshooting step—it's not optional, it's a design requirement. Level your RV, wait 30 minutes, and cooling should resume.

Can I clean the igniter electrode on my RV fridge?

Yes, you can carefully clean a corroded gas burner igniter electrode with fine sandpaper or a pencil eraser. Be extremely gentle because it's ceramic and breaks easily. If the electrode is cracked or cleaning doesn't help, it needs replacement. Always turn off the fridge and propane before opening the burner area.

What does it mean if my fridge works only on electric or only on gas?

If your fridge cools on electric but not gas, the gas burner solenoid or igniter has failed. If it cools on gas but not electric, the heating element is likely burned out. Each mode is a separate system, so one can fail independently of the other. You can continue using the working mode while you arrange repairs.

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Last updated: 2026-02-18