RV Fridge Not Working? 6 Fixes That Actually Work
Quick Answer
An RV fridge that's completely dead is usually caused by a tripped breaker, a blown fuse, or the control board failing. Check your breaker panel for a tripped "Fridge" breaker and flip it back on. If the breaker holds and the fridge still won't power up, try unplugging it for 5 minutes and plugging back in. If that doesn't work, the control board has likely failed and needs professional replacement.
Your RV fridge has stopped working entirely—no lights, no fan sound, no cooling. When a fridge goes completely dark, the cause is narrower than a fridge that won't cool: it's likely a power issue, a blown control board, a propane failure, or a catastrophic internal component failure. This guide helps you diagnose whether it's a simple breaker reset (5 minutes) or a component replacement (hours and hundreds of dollars). Start with the quick fixes; most complete failures are caught by one of these.
No Power or Tripped Breaker
This is the #1 reason an RV fridge stops working. Most modern RV fridges draw power continuously to run the control board, even in gas mode. If your fridge is completely dead (no lights, no fan), power isn't reaching it. First, locate your main breaker panel (usually inside a cabinet near the entrance or in a basement compartment). Look for a breaker labeled "Refrigerator," "Fridge," or sometimes "Appliances." If it's in the middle position (tripped) or pointing down/off, flip it back to the on position (usually up). If it holds in the on position for at least 5 minutes, your fridge should now power back up—the display might light, you might hear a fan, and cooling should resume or begin. If the breaker trips again immediately when you switch it back on, there's an electrical short in the fridge and you need professional service. For boondocking RVs without shore power, check your battery voltage: the house battery must be above 11V for the control board to function (ideal is 12.5V+). A low battery voltage will cause the fridge to shut down; recharge by driving, using a generator, or deploying solar panels. Once battery voltage recovers, the fridge should power back on. If the breaker is already in the on position and hasn't tripped, move to other causes.
Control Board Complete Failure
The control board (sometimes called a motherboard or control module) is the electronic brain of your fridge. It controls the display, mode selection, temperature sensor readings, and all cooling functions. If the board is completely dead, the display won't light, buttons won't respond, and fans won't turn on. The fridge appears lifeless. A control board failure can happen suddenly (a power surge from a lightning strike or shore power fluctuation) or gradually (capacitors fail over time). First, try a complete power reset: unplug the fridge from shore power (or disconnect the 12V battery connection if boondocking), wait 5 minutes, then reconnect. This sometimes wakes up a stuck or frozen board. If the display still doesn't light after a reset, the board is likely dead. Control board replacement is a technician job ($300–$500 for the part, plus labor). You'll also need the board programmed or configured for your specific fridge model, which requires technical knowledge. Before replacing, a technician should confirm the board is dead using a multimeter; sometimes a blown fuse or a corroded connector mimics board failure. Check your warranty: if the fridge is less than 3 years old, the board might be covered.
Cooling Unit Complete Failure
A failed cooling unit (absorption chamber with ammonia) won't show as a "dead" fridge if the control board is working—you'll see lights and hear fans, but get no cold. However, in some cases (especially older Dometic models), a catastrophic cooling unit failure triggers a lockout where the control board shuts down entirely to prevent damage. You might see the display flicker or show an error code, then go dark. This is a protection mechanism. If your fridge worked until recently and is now completely dead with no lights, and you know the breaker is on, the cooling unit might have catastrophically failed and the board auto-locked. A technician can check the cooling unit for ammonia leaks (you might smell ammonia near the exterior vent) and confirm failure. If the cooling unit is dead, your options are: (1) replace the entire fridge ($1500–$3500 new, $800–$1200 used), (2) replace the cooling module if your fridge design allows ($800–$1200 part), or (3) repair the cooling unit (extremely rare; most units can't be repaired). Recovery: if you've ruled out breaker and board issues, cooling unit failure is likely and warrants a technician consultation.
Propane Supply or Solenoid Failure
If your RV fridge was working in gas mode and suddenly stopped, propane supply is a possible culprit. First, check your propane tank gauge on the exterior of your RV—if it reads empty, that's your answer. Have the tank refilled at any propane station. If the tank has fuel, confirm propane is flowing to other appliances: try lighting your stove burner. If the stove lights, propane is flowing and your tank isn't empty. If the stove won't light either, your propane regulator is faulty or propane flow is blocked. If propane is flowing everywhere else but your fridge is dead, the fridge's propane solenoid valve might have failed and won't accept propane. A dead solenoid requires professional replacement ($200–$400). As a temporary workaround, switch the fridge to electric mode if you have shore power or charged batteries. This allows you to preserve food while you arrange a solenoid replacement. If you can't access electric power, you'll need mobile service or will have to rely on ice.
Thermistor or Sensor Failure Triggering Shutdown
The thermistor is the temperature sensor inside the fridge. In rare cases, a severely failed thermistor sends such erratic signals to the control board that the board shuts down as a protection measure, thinking something is dangerously wrong. You'll see the fridge go completely dark with no response to button presses. This is distinct from a normal thermistor failure (which just prevents cooling but leaves the board running). If the fridge is completely dead and you've ruled out breaker and board issues, a failed sensor triggering a shutdown is possible. A technician can test the thermistor with a multimeter and replace it if bad ($100–$200 part, $100–$200 labor). Once the new sensor is installed, the board usually wakes up and resumes normal operation. This is less common than board or cooling unit failure, but it's a real possibility if everything else checks out.
Physical Damage to Fridge Compartment
If your RV was recently involved in an accident, bumped hard during towing, or had something dropped on it, physical damage to the cooling unit or electrical connections might have caused total failure. Look for dents, cracks, or visible damage to the exterior or interior fridge cabinet. If you see damage near the burner area (for gas fridges) or the back panel, that could indicate internal component damage. Cosmetic dents don't usually cause failures, but cracks or crush damage to the cooling unit housing will definitely prevent function. If you suspect physical damage, a technician should inspect for internal damage to the cooling coils, burner assembly, or wiring harness. Depending on severity, internal repairs might be possible, or the fridge might be totaled. If the fridge is relatively new and the damage was caused by accident, your RV insurance might cover repair or replacement—check your policy.
When to Call a Pro
Call a technician if the breaker is on but the fridge won't power up after a reset, if the control board display is dead and won't respond to a power cycle, if the cooling unit has failed (you smell ammonia or suspect internal damage), if the thermistor can't be tested with a multimeter, or if the fridge shows physical damage. Control board, solenoid, and cooling unit replacement all require professional service.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I reset my RV fridge if it's completely dead?
Yes, try a complete power reset: unplug the fridge from shore power for 5 minutes, then plug back in. Alternatively, if your fridge is hardwired, trip the breaker for 5 minutes. This resets the control board and sometimes wakes it up. Wait 5 minutes after powering back on to see if the display lights. If it doesn't, the board is likely dead.
What does an error code on my RV fridge display mean?
Different brands use different error codes (Dometic, Norcold, Waeco), and the manual for your specific fridge explains what each code means. Common codes: NO (cooling unit failure), E1 (temperature sensor error), or F1 (control board fault). Look up your model's manual online if you don't have the physical copy. Error codes help technicians diagnose problems faster.
Is it cheaper to repair or replace a dead RV fridge?
For fridges under 5 years old with a single component failure, repair is usually cheaper ($300–$600 for board or component replacement). For fridges over 10 years old with major failures, replacement is often cheaper ($800–$1200 for a quality used unit or $1500–$3500 for new). Compare repair estimates to replacement costs before deciding. If repairs exceed 60% of replacement cost, replace.
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Last updated: 2026-02-18