RV Fridge Not Cooling on Electric? Here's the Fix
Quick Answer
If your RV fridge cools on gas but not electric, check that shore power is actually connected and delivering 120V (use a multimeter or plug in a lamp). Then confirm the "Electric" mode is selected on the control panel. If both check out, the electric heating element is likely burned out and needs professional replacement.
Your RV fridge cools fine on gas, but when you switch to electric mode (or plug into shore power), nothing happens—no cooling, no cold. This is a mode-specific failure affecting only the electric heating pathway, which narrows the diagnosis significantly. The cause is almost always a burned-out heating element, a tripped GFCI breaker, a failed mode switch, or low shore power voltage. This guide walks you through testing and fixing each one.
Electric Heating Element Burned Out
The heating element is a sealed electric resistor that heats the fridge when power is applied. If the element burns out (an open circuit), electricity can't flow through it and no heat is generated. A burned-out element is the most common reason an RV fridge won't cool on electric mode. You can test this: switch to electric mode and listen carefully near the fridge back or bottom for a faint hum (the element humming). If you hear no sound at all, the element is likely burned out. A technician can measure the element's resistance with a multimeter; zero resistance means it's dead. Heating element replacement is straightforward ($100–$200 for the part, $150–$300 for labor), though it requires draining some water from the tank and accessing a service port. You can't fix this yourself unless you're plumbing-savvy. Until the element is replaced, you can continue using gas mode or rely on an external cooler. Elements burn out gradually; if your fridge has been cooling slowly on electric, the element may be weakening and replacement is imminent. Hard water (high mineral content) causes elements to scale and burn out faster; annual flushing with a weak vinegar solution can extend element life.
Shore Power Not Connected or Low Voltage
This is embarrassingly common and not actually a failure: you think you're plugged into shore power, but you're not, or the shore power outlet is delivering insufficient voltage. First, physically confirm your RV is plugged into a campground pedestal or dock. Walk to the pedestal and check that your cord is firmly seated (wiggle the connector—it should feel snug). Then, test the outlet: plug in a lamp or phone charger and confirm it works. If the lamp lights, shore power is flowing. If the lamp doesn't light, the outlet is dead or your cord has a problem. If shore power is confirmed working but your fridge still won't cool on electric, check the voltage: you need at least 110V for the fridge to function properly; below 105V and many fridges won't cool. Ask the campground host to test the pedestal voltage, or use a multimeter at your RV's shore power connection (meter should read 115–125V). Low voltage typically means the campground's electrical system is overloaded. Try a different pedestal, or ask the host to reset the circuit. Once you confirm good voltage, the fridge should cool on electric within 30 minutes.
GFCI Breaker Tripped or Blown Fuse
Modern RVs have GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breakers on electrical circuits to protect against shock. A GFCI breaker can trip if the fridge has a minor electrical fault (wet components, corrosion, or a short). This cuts power to the electric heating element instantly. Check your breaker panel for a "Refrigerator" or "Appliances" breaker that's in the middle or tripped position. If you find one, flip it back to on. If it holds for at least 5 minutes, shore power has been restored and the fridge should cool on electric. If the breaker trips again within 30 seconds, there's an electrical fault inside the fridge (likely moisture on the element or a corroded connection) and you need professional service. For older RVs with fuse systems instead of breakers, check for a blown fuse in the fridge circuit (consult your RV's electrical diagram). A blown fuse looks discolored or has a broken filament inside—replace it with an identical amperage fuse. If the fuse blows again immediately, an electrical problem exists and a technician should diagnose it.
Mode Switch Failure or Stuck in Gas Mode
Some RV fridges have a mechanical or electronic mode switch that selects between gas and electric cooling. If the switch is stuck in gas mode or the switching mechanism has failed, the control board won't engage the electric heating element even when you select electric. First, look at your fridge control panel: there should be a button, dial, or display setting for mode selection. Press or select "Electric" and wait 10 seconds for the board to register the change. On some models, you might hear a faint click as the solenoid switches modes. If the display shows "Electric" selected but no cooling starts, the switch mechanism is stuck or the control board isn't recognizing the switch position. Try toggling back and forth between "Gas" and "Electric" several times rapidly—sometimes this unsticks a stuck switch. If the control board is unresponsive to mode changes (buttons don't register, display doesn't update), the board or the switch sensor has failed and needs professional diagnosis ($150–$300).
Control Board Not Detecting Electric Power Selection
The control board reads the mode switch input and decides which heating system to activate. If the board has a faulty connection to the mode switch, or the switch sensor is broken, the board won't know you've selected electric mode and won't turn on the heating element. This manifests as selecting "Electric" on the display but nothing happening—no hum, no cooling, no error. A technician can test the switch circuit with a multimeter and confirm whether the problem is a loose connection, a faulty switch sensor, or a board failure. If it's a loose connection, reconnecting it ($0 fix) solves the problem. If the sensor is broken, it needs replacement ($100–$200). If the board itself is faulty, board replacement is necessary ($300–$500). Always try a complete power reset first (unplug for 5 minutes) before assuming the board is broken—sometimes a soft reset clears a stuck state and the fridge resumes normal mode switching.
Fuse for Electric Element Blown Specifically
Some older RV fridges have separate fuses for gas and electric circuits. If only the electric circuit's fuse is blown, the electric element has no power while the gas circuit remains fine. Check your fridge's fuse block (location varies by model—consult your manual). Look for two fuses labeled something like "Heater" or "12V Heat" and "Gas" or "Propane." If the electric fuse looks blown (dark or broken filament), replace it with an identical amperage fuse (usually 10A, 15A, or 20A—the marking on the fuse case tells you). Once replaced, the electric heating element should power up. If the fuse blows again immediately or within a few hours, there's a short circuit in the electric heating element or wiring, and you need professional service. This is less common in modern fridges (which use integrated control boards) but worth checking in older models.
When to Call a Pro
Call a technician if the electric heating element is burned out, if the mode switch is stuck or the control board won't respond to mode changes, if a GFCI keeps tripping even after being reset, if you've confirmed good shore power and the fridge still won't cool on electric, or if an electrical short is suspected. Element replacement and electrical diagnostics require professional expertise.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if my RV is actually connected to shore power?
Walk to the pedestal and look for your power cord—it should be firmly plugged in. Wiggle it to check for a snug fit. Then plug a lamp into your RV's outlet to confirm power is flowing. If the lamp lights, shore power is active. If no lamp lights, either you're not plugged in or the outlet is dead—try a different pedestal.
What voltage should my RV shore power be?
Standard RV shore power is 120V AC, and most appliances need at least 110–115V to function. Below 105V, cooling appliances often won't work. Use a multimeter or ask the campground host to test the voltage at your pedestal. If it's consistently low, the campground's electrical system is overloaded and you should request a different pedestal or hookup.
Can I keep using my fridge on gas if the electric heating element is broken?
Yes, absolutely. Use gas mode while you arrange for element replacement. Just confirm your propane tank is full and functioning. You don't need to use the fridge on electric if gas mode is working fine—it's a backup option for when you're parked at a campground without propane hookups.
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Last updated: 2026-02-18