RV Water Heater Pilot Light Not Lighting: Fix It Now
Quick Answer
A clicking but non-lighting RV water heater is usually caused by a corroded igniter electrode or lack of propane. First, confirm propane is flowing at your stove. Then, clean the igniter electrode with fine sandpaper—90% of cases are solved by cleaning away white crusty corrosion. If that doesn't work, the thermocouple or burner is likely the issue and needs professional service.
Your RV water heater is clicking (the igniter is trying), but no flame appears. This is one of the most fixable water heater problems, and in many cases you can solve it yourself in under 5 minutes. The cause is almost always a dirty or corroded igniter electrode, sometimes a depleted propane supply, occasionally a broken thermocouple, or rarely a failed burner tube. This guide walks you through diagnosis and the fixes, from cleaning to simple component replacement.
No Propane or Low Propane Supply
Before assuming your igniter is broken, confirm propane is actually reaching the heater. Open your propane tank valve (the ball valve on the exterior of your RV, near the tank), and try lighting your stove burner. If the stove ignites with a normal blue flame, propane is flowing and your tank isn't empty. If the stove won't light either, your propane tank is empty or the supply valve is closed. Have the tank refilled at any propane station, or check that the tank valve is fully open (turn it counter-clockwise). Low pressure is also possible: if the stove flame is very weak or barely lights, your propane regulator is restricting flow. This will prevent the water heater from igniting even if a flame tries to form. A technician can measure propane pressure with a gauge; normal is 11–13 inches of water column. If pressure is low, the regulator needs service or replacement. In the meantime, if your tank is full and the stove lights fine, propane supply is not your issue—move to the igniter electrode.
Dirty or Corroded Igniter Electrode
This is the #1 cause of RV water heater ignition failure. The igniter electrode is a thin ceramic rod, usually white or cream-colored, that sparks 10,000+ volts to ignite propane. Over time, white crusty mineral deposits and corrosion accumulate on the electrode, insulating it and preventing spark from jumping to the burner. You can see the electrode if you open the access panel on the front of the heater (usually held by one or two screws at the bottom). Look near the burner area—you'll see a small ceramic rod surrounded by metal. If it's covered in white deposits, corrosion is definitely your problem. To clean it: turn off the heater and propane at the main valve. Use very fine sandpaper (220 grit or higher) or a pencil eraser to gently rub away the white crusty material. Don't scrub hard or you'll crack the ceramic—be gentle and deliberate. Once the electrode looks clean and shiny, wipe away all dust with a dry cloth or compressed air. Reinstall any covers, turn propane and power back on, and try igniting. In 90% of cases, cleaning solves the problem. If the electrode is cracked or darkly discolored, it may have already failed and needs replacement ($50–$100 part, plus labor). Atwood and Suburban electrodes are especially prone to corrosion in humid climates; if you're near salt water or in a humid region, clean the electrode annually to prevent buildup.
Thermocouple or Thermopile Failure
If cleaning the igniter electrode didn't help, the thermocouple (a small sensor that detects the pilot flame) might have failed. The thermocouple sits very close to the pilot burner and generates a tiny electric current when heated by the flame. This current signals the control board to keep the solenoid valve open. If the thermocouple is corroded, bent, or damaged, it won't generate signal and the solenoid closes, killing the propane flow to the burner. You can see the thermocouple near the burner (consult your manual for exact location)—it looks like a thin copper or brass tube. If it's bent, gently try to straighten it toward the flame zone. If it looks corroded (dark or pitted surface), it needs replacement. Thermocouple replacement requires removing and reinstalling the burner assembly, which is a technician job ($150–$250 including part and labor). Before replacing, a technician should test the thermocouple with a multimeter to confirm it's not generating voltage; if voltage is present but weak, sometimes repositioning it closer to the flame helps. Thermocouples fail gradually; if your igniter clicks and sometimes lights but then goes out immediately, the thermocouple is weakening and replacement is near.
Cracked or Clogged Burner Tube
The burner tube is the component that delivers propane to the igniter and main flame. If the burner tube is cracked, clogged with mineral deposits or insect debris, or misaligned, propane won't reach the igniter and flame won't appear. You might see clicking but no spark, or spark with no flame. Inspecting the burner tube requires removing it from the heater, which is a technician job. If you peek inside the access panel and the burner looks visibly clogged, damaged, or has debris inside, a technician should clean or replace it. Burner tube cleaning or replacement typically costs $150–$300. In rare cases, the burner was damaged during transport or installation—if your RV is new and the heater never worked, the burner might have been installed incorrectly and needs repositioning. Check that the igniter electrode and thermocouple are physically close to the burner opening (within 1/4 inch); if they're too far away, spark won't reach propane and ignition fails. A technician can reposition them or replace the burner assembly if needed.
DSI Control Board or Igniter Transformer Failure
If you've cleaned the igniter electrode and confirmed propane is flowing, but you still hear no clicking sound at all, the DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) board might have failed. The DSI board generates the high-voltage spark for the igniter. If the board is dead, you'll see no lights on the control panel or hear no igniter clicking. Try a complete power reset first: switch the heater off, trip the breaker for 30 seconds, then restore power and switch the heater on. This sometimes wakes up a stuck board. If clicking still doesn't return, the igniter transformer (part of the DSI board) is likely burned out and the entire board needs replacement ($200–$400). Board failure is rare in new heaters but common in units over 10 years old. If your board is still under warranty (usually 1–3 years), contact the manufacturer about warranty replacement. Otherwise, a technician will need to order and install a new board, which involves testing connections and confirming the new board powers on correctly. Until you have a new board, your water heater is offline and you'll need to rely on an alternative heat source.
When to Call a Pro
Call a technician if the igniter electrode is cracked, if the thermocouple needs replacement, if the burner tube is clogged or damaged, if the DSI board isn't responding to power reset, or if you hear no clicking at all (indicating power isn't reaching the igniter). Component replacement and board service require specialized tools and knowledge.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to clean the igniter electrode myself?
Yes, cleaning the electrode with sandpaper or an eraser is safe if you turn off the heater and propane first. The electrode is ceramic and fragile, so use gentle pressure and avoid cracks. Never attempt to replace the electrode yourself; it's high-voltage and requires professional service if replacement is needed.
Why does my water heater igniter click but never light?
Clicking means the igniter is firing spark, but no flame appears. The most common cause is a corroded electrode preventing spark from jumping to the burner. Clean it with sandpaper first. If clicking continues without spark after cleaning, the electrode is likely cracked or the burner tube is clogged. A technician should diagnose which component is failed.
What should I do if I smell propane near the water heater?
Propane odor (rotten egg smell) indicates a leak or propane buildup. Ventilate your RV immediately by opening windows and doors. If you smell propane while trying to light the heater, stop and let the smell dissipate before trying again. If odor persists after ventilation, turn off the main propane tank valve and have a technician inspect for leaks. Never ignore propane smell—it's a safety hazard.
Related Guides
Last updated: 2026-02-18